The Organic Linen Industry in France
France is by far the world’s leading producer of textile flax. In a context where many farms are converting to organic agriculture, here’s a closer look at the development of organic textile flax cultivation.
Organic flax production
The area of organic flax in France was estimated at around 300 hectares in 2018, shared between around forty producers. By way of comparison, the total area of textile flax grown in France amounts to 100,000 hectares.
Organic flax is therefore a tiny market within the sector, but its surface area is increasing year on year, thanks to improved technical know-how and the development of demand and processing channels. The current producers are spread between Seine-Maritime, Eure, Seine-et-Marne and the Nord.
The constraints of organic flax production
To grow organic flax, one must first comply with a strict set of requirements and avoid all synthetic products, such as fertilisers and plant protection products.
Here is a summary of the constraints in the process of producing organic flax:
- In spring, certified organic seeds must be sown, which are more vulnerable to pests, exposing the flax to potential insect attacks.
- Germination and emergence must be very rapid to minimise these risks of attack as much as possible.
- Flax is therefore sown later in the season, once temperatures have risen.
- It is necessary to increase the crop rotation period to avoid the build-up of disease resistance.
- It is recommended to wait 7 years before growing flax again on the same plot, compared to 5 to 6 years in conventional farming.
As a reminder, you can find the entire flax processing chain.
Processing organic flax
Once harvested, organic flax must be scutched by a scutching company. It is during this process that the fibre is extracted from the plant. In order to retain its organic certification, the scutcher must themselves be GOTS certified (Global Organic Textile Standard). In 2018, eight scutchers received this certification, including our local partner Terre de Lin. In France, ECOCERT is the body that issues the GOTS certification. Afterwards, three European spinners also hold this certification.
Labelling finished products
The “Organic Textiles” label requires that the textile contains at least 95% fibres from organic agriculture and a maximum of 5% synthetic or artificial fibres.
The “Textiles made with organic fibres” label requires a minimum of 70% organic fibres, and allows no more than 10% synthetic or artificial fibres, rising to 25% for hosiery or sports items.
A closer look at linen clothing
An association to accelerate the development of the sector
Founded at the initiative of a handful of farmers and processors, the association "Lin et Chanvre Bio" was set up in 2013. It has three membership groups: organic farmers, cooperative and private companies, and partner institutions. Its members are dedicated to promoting products made from organic textile flax and organic hemp. Today, it brings together organic flax producers, scutchers, combers, weavers, as well as several brands offering certified organic linen. Discover the association’s work to find out more.